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ROWAN STREET AND THE TALES OF THIS PAISLEY LOCATION




Good morning, readers of the Wandering Writer! Thank you for returning to the blog! Today, we continue our discussion about Rowan Street! “Next to Lylesland are the lands of Dovesland and Kilncroft, owned by Mr. Robert Rowand.” Over time, Robert Rowand developed and owned all the properties along Duke Street and Rowan Street, with the latter running through his large estate. To the north lay Dovesland, the original site of Dooslan Stane of Paisley, while to the south were the lands of Kilncroft, now partly home to South Primary School. Kilncroft was once where limestone from nearby “crags” was burned in kilns to produce lime. In 1850, Robert's daughter Mary Rowan, heiress to her father's extensive holdings on Rowan Street, took legal action against local starch manufacturers, Messrs. Brown and Polson. Their factory was located in Thrushcraigs, further up Rowan Street. Mary claimed that their contract to repair the road in front of her houses on Rowan Street had invaded her private property, asserting that she owned the road. After a lengthy trial led by Mary Rowan's lawyers, it was revealed that the road was a public thoroughfare and had been in existence for at least a century. The court ruled that Brown & Polson had the right to repair the road. Mary Rowan lost the case. After marrying Robert Caldwell, Mary passed away in 1867, leaving her estate to her son Robert Rowan Caldwell. He became a minister of the Free Church of Scotland but faced more worldly issues than spiritual ones. By the time Robert inherited his mother’s property, the homes on Dovesland, Duke Street, and Rowan Street had fallen into disrepair and were no longer suitable for living. What were once desirable rental homes for Charleston's handloom weavers had become occupied by humble workers from the bleach fields. Three of the residences retained thatched roofs, a feature not unusual in Victorian Paisley. One of these structures had been a but-and-ben, with part of it serving as a stable. Opposite another dwelling was a pigsty. The term but-and-ben (or butt and ben) refers to a specific architectural style characterized by a straightforward design, typically associated with residential buildings. Its origins lie in the Scottish language, denoting a cottage comprising two rooms. This nomenclature illustrates a fundamental layout consisting of an "outer room" and an "inner room"; the outer room, functioning as an antechamber or kitchen, is termed the but, while the inner room is referred to as the ben. The term but derives from Early Scots/Middle English "bouten," meaning "outside," and ben from Early Scots/Middle English "binnen," meaning "inside." All the residences featured dirt floors and walls that were damp up to the ceiling. There was an absence of toilets, and an open drain in front of the houses served as a receptacle for various types of sewage and refuse. The impoverished tenants were compelled to sleep in humid conditions. The sinks emitted foul odors and lacked running water. In total, approximately 40 houses were found to be in deplorable states. When health authorities approached the landlord, Reverend Caldwell, regarding necessary improvements for his tenants, he expressed resentment towards their interference and demands. The reverend even wrote to local authorities, yet they upheld the findings of the health inspector. His hostility persisted to the extent that legal action was initiated against him. He was faced with the choice of complying with their demands or facing court proceedings. Shortly thereafter, the minister appeared to acquiesce and arranged an immediate meeting with the health inspector. During this meeting, he presented a series of well-rehearsed justifications for the condition of his properties, some of which were deemed "rather absurd for the time." These arguments seemed particularly callous when articulated by a minister of the gospel, as he asserted that he was providing a benefit and blessing by offering low-cost housing to the impoverished residents. Ultimately, the health inspector's patience was tested. He said to the minister: "A minister of the Lord, your role is to share the message of 'Peace on earth, goodwill toward all men.' I wonder if, given this mission, you believe it’s possible to treat others as you wish to be treated yourself. This thought seemed to resonate with the minister, leading to important commitments being made within just two days. The three dilapidated homes in Dovesland were shut down, and a comprehensive plan for sanitary improvements was set in motion for the remaining properties. By around 1896, the old buildings on Rowan Street in Dovesland were finally torn down. Residents of Paisley may recall the empty lot on Duke Street, which hosted an annual visit from “The Shows.” Today, the only traces of old Dovesland are the fish and chip shop on Neilston Road and the Dooslan spade now displayed in Brodie Park.


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